|
|
al |
|
|
From the Vault
 Jefferson’s Straight Rye Whiskey 100% Rye Aged 10 Years(Canada; Castle Brands, New York, NY); 47% abv, $40. Medium amber color; flawless purity. Bright, compelling, fruity/bakery aromas of baked banana bread, baked pears and apple cobbler make for delightful early-on sniffing; further air contact time of seven minutes encourages the ripe fruit aspect to deepen as gentle spice notes, especially pepper and allspice, round out an exceptional bouquet experience. Entry is moderately oily, delicately spiced and even a touch honeyed; midpalate features the spice element in spades, making for zesty, tangy sipping. Aftertaste focuses squarely on the fruit component again along with a last minute hit of rye bread. Lots going on here…all of it good. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating:  Highly Recommended Old Pogue Master’s Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey(USA; Old Pogue Distillery, Bardstown, KY); 41% abv, $45. Lovely amber tone; impeccable clarity. Opening whiffs detect hints of new leather, beeswax and cornmeal; another eight minutes of air contact stimulates deeper aromas of oak resin, pine and corn oil. Entry tastes include resin, buttered popcorn and fresh honey; midpalate highlights the honey along with dried red fruits, especially prunes, and tangy black pepper. Ends on a succulent, rounded note of cookie batter, baking spices (vanilla, nutmeg) and corn syrup. A superb Old Pogue expression. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highly Recommended Wild Turkey 81 Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey(USA; Austin, Nichols Distilling Co., Lawrenceburg, KY); 40.5% abv, $20. Light amber/dark gold color; ideal clarity. Initial sniffs encounter controlled aromas of candle wax and margarine; further aeration fails to bring out much more in the way of aromatics so I move forward. Entry features delicate, fruity and ripe tastes of brown sugar, raisins and sugar plums; midpalate is tasty and medium-full, offering oily tastes of corn oil, oaky vanilla and wood resin. Finishes honeyed and almost sherry-like. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highly RecommendedUNAGED GRAIN SPIRIT/WHISKEY – USA  Trybox Series New Make Corn Spirit(USA; Heaven Hill Distilleries, Bardstown, KY); 62.5% abv, $25. As I’d expect of distillers Craig and Parker Beam, flawless clarity; limpid. Smells all kernel-like, dry breakfast cereal-like and grainy in the first whiffs after the pour; an additional seven minutes in the glass do little if anything to alter the course laid out in the initial nosing, except to add floor wax and crushed black pepper and unpopped popcorn/corn kernels. Entry is explosively tasty, off-dry, tangy and corny in a straightforward manner; midpalate is more sophisticated and calm, as the taste profile settles down into a medium dry cornfest, accenting more of corn’s grainy aspect than its sweet. Stripped down, Spartan yet tasty, in its unapologetic prickliness. Provide your own fire retardant. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Recommended Trybox Series New Make Rye Spirit(USA; Heaven Hill Distilleries, Bardstown, KY); 62.5% abv, $25. Impeccably clean and silvery clear, with oily ribbons floating in the core. Oooh, baby, this opening aroma is all crackling zesty, spicy, dry and snack cracker enticing; eight more minutes of aeration bring out scents of cardboard, seedless rye bread, black pepper and dried sage. Entry is sassy, prickly, acutely peppery and dusty dry; midpalate features a marginally sweeter profile than the entry as the flavor turns brown sugar/raw cane sugar-like in its bitterness. Ends on a surprisingly cultured note that highlights citrus peel, rye grain, rye bread and salt notes. Most intriguing so-called “unaged whiskey” so far. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highly RecommendedSCOTCH WHISKY – SCOTLAND  Ardbeg Alligator Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky(Scotland; Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY); 51.2% abv, $100. Flaxen yellow color; impeccable purity. Initial whiffs detect vibrant aromas of road tar, cigarette smoke, kippers/salted fish and vegetable oil; eight more minutes in the glass unleash zesty fragrances of sage and thyme plus butcher's waxpaper, charcoal and creosote. Entry is sexily viscous and sweetly smoky, almost like pipe smoke; midpalate features the chewy texture, oily-buttery flavors that are accented with tobacco smoke and egg cream. Finishes as long as Route 66 and as asphalt-like; smoky, sweetandworld-class. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highly Recommended Glenmorangie Pride 1981 Northern Highlands Single Malt Scotch Whisky(Scotland; Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY); 56.7% abv, $3,600/Liter. Incredible deep copper/auburn color; flawless clarity. The amazing nose leaps from the glass in pungent waves of butterscotch, honeysuckle, honey and oloroso sherry; scents of prunes, plums and raisins dominate the second nosing stage after seven minutes of air contact – this is an astonishingly vivid bouquet of class, succulence and staying power. Entry mirrors both nosing stages as the taste profile detonates on the tongue in a major fireworks display of saltwater taffy, treacle, cocoa, chocolate covered cherries and that’s just for starters; midpalate settles down a bit and features plums, mince meat, baked apples and pears, honey, oak resins and spirit. Ends on a spirity, embers-like note of sheer genius. Along with the Nectar D’Or, my favorite Glenmorangie. One of the world’s greatest spirits right now. Master Distiller Dr Bill Lumsden rocks. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highest Recommendation Springbank Hazelburn 8 Year Old Cask Strength Campbeltown Single Malt Scotch Whisky(Scotland; Anchor Distilling Co., San Diego, CA); 57% abv, $111. Apple juice yellow color; ideal purity. Initial sniffs detect fruity, apple and pear scents that are marginally toasty and cereally – the spirit is completely benign at this stage; secondary whiffs after further aeration time accentuate the apple/pear tandem, which by now has become a touch spicy and pastry-like; a lovely, elegant bouquet. Entry is gloriously grainy sweet to the taste and chewy in texture; midpalate turns up the heat as the spirit becomes more evident and the taste profile turns simultaneously maple- and honey-like. Finishes on a sherried note of butter cream, vanilla and crème brulée. Downright yummy. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highly RecommendedSpringbank Longrow 11 Year Old Cask Strength/Single Cask/Sherry Hogshead Campbeltown Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Anchor Distilling Co., San Diego, CA); 57.1% abv, $119. Flax/pale yellow color; pristine clarity. Gamey, tea-like fragrances rush out to greet you in the opening inhalations; further time in the glass brings out mild aromas of smoked fish, new leather and meringue. Entry is lightly smoked, agreeably sweet and intensely grainy; midpalate turns buttery/creamy and oily in texture, nearly viscous, and all through the taste profile the concentrated maltiness of the grain shines through with brilliance. Concludes cereal sweet, sensationally honeyed and long in the throat. Longrow in its prime. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highest RecommendationSpringbank 12 Year Old Cask Strength Campbeltown Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Anchor Distilling Co., San Diego, CA); 54.6% abv, $72. Old gold/amber color; totally sediment free. First scents after the pour are all about yeast, unripened fruit and bread dough; following another eight minutes of air contact, I find a foxiness to it that’s almost viny, but the primary aromatic thrust remains a decidedly yeasty fruitiness that’s one part stewed apple and one part dried apricot. Entry features the pruny oloroso sherry aspect in spades, but also displays touches of oak resin and cocoa; midpalate is all of the above plus additional tastes of figs, raisins, chocolate covered almonds and mince meat. The rum-like brown sugar/molasses aftertaste is luxurious and satisfying. Think that this young Springbank is a steal at this retail price. Grab a couple of bottles. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highest RecommendationSpringbank 14 Year Old Cask Strength/Manzanilla Cask #259 Campbeltown Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Anchor Distilling Co., San Diego, CA); 54.8% abv, $100. Seriously attractive amber/topaz hue; impeccable purity. Out of the gate this aroma smells tantalizingly of salted butter, dark toffee, butter cream candies and cigar box – I’m in love; with time in the glass, the bouquet softens and grows plump in a biscuit-like manner that’s appealing. Entry is oaky sweet, maple-like, honeyed and moderately oily in texture; midpalate highlights include intensely rum-like flavors of sugar beet, old oak, Christmas sugar cookies and honey. Ends sweet, chewy and chocolaty. Dessert in a glass. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highest RecommendationSpringbank 14 Year Old Cask Strength/Fino Cask #265 Campbeltown Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Anchor Distilling Co., San Diego, CA); 55.3% abv, $100. Bronze/burnished orange color; perfect clarity. First aromatic impressions are of old wine, buttered toast, green olive and sawdust; additional time in the glass brings out a coffee latte-like aspect that’s pleasing. Entry flavor is like marzipan, almond paste and hot cocoa; midpalate taste profile features bittersweet chocolate, cooking oil, oak and praline. Ends sweet, wildly woody and sherry-like, though more oloroso than fino. Lip-smacking delicious for lovers of sweetness. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highest RecommendationSpringbank 14 Year Old Cask Strength/Amontillado Cask #305 Campbeltown Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Anchor Distilling Co., San Diego, CA); 55.4% abv, $100. Pretty topaz color; sediment free. Coffee bean and loose-leaf black tea aromas greet and enchant the olfactory sense in the opening sniffs; seven more minutes in the glass release additional fragrances of linseed oil, beeswax and unsalted butter. Entry is stunningly succulent and creamy sweet; midpalate features incredibly luscious tastes of nougat, praline and candied fruits (cherry), wrapped in sweet oak. Finishes long, intense, spirity and beany. A stupendously tasty malt of multiple dimensions that is irresistible. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highest RecommendationSpringbank 14 Year Old Cask Strength/Oloroso Cask #268 Campbeltown Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Anchor Distilling Co., San Diego, CA); 56.2% abv, $100. Lovely deep amber/old gold color; impeccable clarity. There’s a definite saltiness/sea breeze aspect to this opening nose that’s fresh and invigorating; secondary inhalations after further aeration introduce black pepper, dried herbs (thyme, bay leaf) and toasted cereal grains. Entry warms the tongue and offers piquant flavors of allspice, pork sausage, sweet oak and vanilla bean; midpalate highlights the vanilla bean especially as the overall taste impression deepens, becoming intensely spicy, oaky and honeyed. The remarkable aftertaste seems to be infinite in scope, as the dominant flavor of sherry shifts into passing gear. Unbelievably luscious from start to finish. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highest RecommendationSINGLE MALT WHISKY – FRANCE Armorik Whisky Single Malt de Bretange (France; Heavenly Spirits LLC, Lakeville, MA); 46% abv, $50. Pale gold/straw yellow color; unblemished clarity. Initial whiffs encounter bright, animated cereal grain aromas that are fruity (banana, pineapple) and exceedingly pleasant; another seven minutes in the sampling glass allow for deeper, floral-leaning aromas to take charge, mostly honeysuckle and jasmine. Entry is grainy/breakfast cereal sweet and lightly honeyed, but earthy (dusty) and herbal (thyme) at the same time; midpalate highlights the herbs and the light honey/brown sugar aspects. Extremely drinkable right through the woody/resiny aftertaste, which has a touch of butterscotch. Like this French malt a lot. Tasted in 2009 and rated four stars. I enjoyed the chance to retaste. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highly RecommendedSINGLE MALT WHISKY – WALES 
Penderyn AC Aur Cymru Madeira Finish Single Malt Welsh Whisky(Wales; Sazarac Company, New Orleans, LA); 46% abv, $47. Pretty, brilliant straw gold color; perfect, sediment free clarity. Opening whiffs encounter winy, fruity upfront scents that are gracefully balanced with more substantial aromas of oak resin, linseed oil and unsalted butter; another seven minutes of air contact enhances the early-stage aromas and adds dazzling notes of coffee latte and candied walnut; highly desirable bouquet. Entry is ideally sweet, oily and nougaty; midpalate features zesty, spicy tastes of cinnamon, orange peel, grain husk and candy bar. Finishes medium-long, very spicy (now vanilla) and lush. Penderyn whiskies just keep advancing. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highly RecommendedWHISKEY – IRELAND  Paddy Old Irish Whiskey, A Blend (Ireland; Pernod Ricard USA, Purchase, NY); 40% abv, $28/Liter. Bright marigold yellow color; superb clarity. Opening sniffs detect warm, supple, generous and moderately sweet scents of breakfast cereal, kiwi and porridge/oatmeal; following another seven minutes of air contact, the aroma becomes less expansive, settling in on the graininess/husk element. Entry is uncomplicated, gently sweet, but with a balancing aspect of acidity that maintains this early taste’s freshness; midpalate mirrors the entry as the forward taste is grainy while the foundational flavor is woody and tangy. Ends on a clean, refreshingly astringent note that actually shows some late spice. Nicely made and straightforward, this whiskey doesn’t try to be something that it’s not and that’s why it’s so damned drinkable. Ireland’s Saturday afternoon while watching football whiskey. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Recommended Powers Gold Label Special Reserve Aged 12 Years Irish Whiskey, A Blend(Ireland; Pernod Ricard USA, Purchase, NY); 40% abv, $29. Attractive light amber/old gold color; unblemished purity. There’s a penetrating bakery/professional kitchen aspect to this early dry aroma that’s simultaneously oily, toasty, doughy and resinous; seven more minutes of exposure to air unleashes malted grain, snack cracker and lead pencil aromas that compel and attract. Entry is off-dry, slightly peppery, vegetal and oaky; midpalate stage is sweeter than the entry as the taste profile switches from spice and vegetable to grain, caramel, nougat and oak. Finishes medium-long, toasty and maple-like. A serious whiskey of depth and dimension. Spirit Journal 2011 Rating: Highly Recommended
© F. Paul Pacult |
|
|
Subscribe to Spirit Journal | Spirit Journal Consulting Services |
Early Times 354 Bourbon Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey