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From
the Vault
All rights reserved
©2009 F. Paul Pacult
The following reviews first appeared in the September 2009
issue of F. Paul Pacult's Spirit Journal.
WHISKEY
- IRELAND
 Connemara
Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey Ireland; (Sazerac Company, New
Orleans, LA); 40% abv, $40.
Orange/topaz color; very good clarity. Smells remind me of vinyl
and candle wax in the initial sniffs after the pour and it's
neither sweet nor sour, just, well, a touch plastic-like; additional
time in the glass sees the vinyl fade away, leaving behind vegetal
notes of tobacco leaf and sea salt. Entry is acutely resiny,
peaty-astringent, and woody, almost a touch too much because
there's no evidence of grain or fruit or malt to be had until
you reach the midpalate stage which does offer an oasis of dried
fruit but even less grain/malt. Concludes a bit raw spirit-wise
and smoky/peaty.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
 Recommended
 Connemara
Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey 12 Years Old (Ireland; Sazerac
Company, New Orleans, LA); 40% abv, $100.
Pale straw gold color; flawless purity. Oh, yeah, this nose right
out of the gate is like kippers/smoked fish and gently sweet
pipe smoke; further aeration brings out a sweetish charcoal/barbequed
meat fragrance and a citrusy note that I find mesmerizing and
keenly inviting. Entry is adequately peaty and iodine-like, but
off-dry and nicely crisp; midpalate is quite smoky/tobacco leaf
tasting and yet there's an alluring salty dryness that cleans
the palate thoroughly. Finishes moderately salty and quite smoky/earthy/peaty.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
 Connemara
Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey Natural Cask Strength (Ireland;
Sazerac Company, New Orleans, LA); 57.9% abv, $60.
Chardonnay-like straw yellow color; quite a lot of debris seen
floating about. Floral, garden fresh, and minty scents take me
by surprise in the opening rounds of inhaling - wasn't expecting
civilization; the bouquet goes all spice cake, dried fruits,
and vanilla snap cookies in the second phase after aeration.
Entry is wonderously sweet and toffee-like and then it turns
spirity and intensely smoked in the midpalate stage that also
features toasted marshmallow and roasted nuts. Concludes more
bittersweet than sweet as the veil of smoke thickens.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Tyrconnell Single Malt Madeira Cask Irish Whiskey 10 Year
Old (Ireland; Sazerac Company, New Orleans, LA); 46% abv, $90.
Very pretty orange-ish amber hue; ideal clarity. Comes off prickly
in the first whiffs after the pour as the spirit stakes its claim
early and with gusto; following six minutes in the glass, the
aroma turns waxy (like butcher's wax paper) and paraffin-like;
there's something hollow in this bouquet. Entry is sappy/resiny
at first, then it turns intensely creamy/nutty; midpalate is
semisweet, bean/kernel-like (coffee bean), and surprisingly,
aggressively bitter/astringent. Ends up like dark caramel or
high-cocoa-content dark chocolate in its bitterness.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Tyrconnell Single Malt Port Cask Irish Whiskey 10 Year
Old (Ireland; Sazerac Company, New Orleans, LA); 46% abv, $90.
Topaz/burnished gold color; totally sediment free. Spirity notes
come rushing out of the glass after the pour as well as lush,
ripe, fruity aromas that are kept somewhat hidden by the alcohol
thrust; seven minutes into the aeration process, the spirit settles
down, leaving the path open for juicy scents of plums and red
grapes. Entry is sweet, ripe, and cocoa butter-like; midpalate
features long, bittersweet tastes of orange rind/zest, figs,
dates, and cocoa. Finishes semisweet, sappy/resiny, and a bit
brittle.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Tyrconnell Single Malt Sherry Cask Irish Whiskey 10 Year
Old (Ireland; Sazerac Company, New Orleans, LA); 46% abv, $90.
Funny to me that the Sherry Cask is the darkest of the three
fortified wine cask expressions; would have expected the Port
or Madeira to be darker. Deep amber/saffron/bronze color; impeccable
purity. Toasty fragrances of baked bread, toasted nuts, and baked
pears make for interesting first stage sniffing; the bake-a-thon
continues in the second phase as enticingly roasted/sautéed
aromas abound; the meatiest, most compelling bouquet of the three
expressions. Entry is fruity/grapy/jammy; midpalate highlights
the fruit but more in a baked/pastry shop manner, as the fruit
almost seems coated in chocolate or caramel. Concludes sweet
and smoky (pipe tobacco).
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
 The
Wild Geese Irish Soldiers & Heroes Classic Blend Blended
Irish Whiskey (Ireland; MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY); 40% abv, $39.
Has a chardonnay yellow/gold appearance; excellent clarity. Smells
remind me of dry breakfast cereal that is slightly sweetened;
second passes after further aeration bring out a mild honey note
that works well with the cereal quality plus there's a dash of
spice. Entry is crisp, moderately sweet in a honeyed manner,
and spiced; midpalate stage doesn't necessarily expand much on
what was discerned at entry, but that's not to say that I'm disappointed,
because I'm not. Sweetness in the aftertaste turns sappy and
slightly maple-like. Good overall.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
 The
Wild Geese Irish Soldiers & Heroes Rare Blended Irish Whiskey
(Ireland; MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY); 43% abv, $49.
Deepest 18-carat gold color of the product line; impeccable purity.
This opening aroma offers woody notes that are clean, horizontal,
and lightly spiced (tarragon); admittedly not the deepest Irish
whiskey bouquet in the world, this bantamweight aroma is nonetheless
mildly pleasing, nutty, and a touch zestier after six minutes
of aeration. Entry is prickly and moderately sweet in a toffee-like
manner; midpalate shows a nice leathery texture and a honeyed
sweetness that's both charming and substantial. Ends on a buttery
note that puts it over the top for a fourth rating star.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
 The
Wild Geese Irish Soldiers & Heroes Limited Edition Fourth
Centennial Blended Irish Whiskey (Ireland; MHW, Ltd., Manhasset,
NY); 43% abv, $69.
White wine yellow color; minor debris spotted. Hello? Where is
the opening aroma on this whiskey because, fellow humans, I can't
locate it and my olfactory sense is second only to a bloodhound's;
thinking that some swirling and additional time in the glass
would help, I am proven wrong; vapid, perhaps mildly grainy,
but basically AWOL. Entry is a touch too hot, raw, and biting;
midpalate is surprisingly flat, showing meager tastes of pepper,
resin, oil, pine. Ends fairly well on a grainy note, but where
was that grainy note when this whiskey really needed it in the
aroma, entry, and midpalate? Pass on it. With the Classic and
Rare available, why even do this one? Thankfully it's a limited
edition.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Not
Recommended
 The
Wild Geese Irish Soldiers & Heroes Single Malt Irish Whiskey
(Ireland; MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY); 43% abv, $89.
Yellow gold appearance; flawless purity. Offers some fairly attractive,
if meek aromas of cookie batter, bread dough, and light toffee
in the initial whiffs after the pour; secondary inhalations dig
up more in the way of malt, biscuits, light baking spice, and
oak; not a landmark aroma but okay. Entry is pleasingly buttery/oily
in the first impression then turns metallic/minerally/lead pencil-like
at midpalate, which doesn't score big with me. This whiskey loses
its way at the final stage of the entry where its flavor turns
coin-like and metallic. Drinkable, but that's the best I can
say about it.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Not
Recommended
SINGLE MALT
WHISKY - FRANCE
Armorik French Single Malt Whisky (France; Preiss Imports,
Ramona, CA); 46% abv, $59.
Soft-focus straw yellow color; good purity. Smells properly grainy
and dry breakfast cereal-like, even peppery in the initial aromatic
go-rounds; the peppery spiciness grows in concentration, making
the bouquet almost caraway seed-like and very roasted/toasty;
I like it a lot. Entry features the acute spiciness of the latter
stages of the nose but in taste form; midpalate is off-dry, crisp,
astringent, and more nutty than spicy as a keen nut paste/nut
butter aspect takes charge and leads into the semisweet, maple-like
aftertaste. In three words, cracker barrel 'licious!
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
DISTILLERY
ISSUE SINGLE MALT WHISKY - SCOTLAND
 Arran Malt Pomerol
Bordeaux Wine Casks Isle of Arran Single Malt Whisky (Scotland;
A Hardy USA, Rosemont, IL); 50% abv, $80.
Peach-like rose/gold color; very good clarity. Opening nosings
encounter piquant, peppery scents that are one part elevated
spirit, one part spiciness, and one part ripe grapes; further
aeration settles down the spiritiness while bumping up the acute
peppery and ripe fruit aspects that go off the charts in inhaling
pleasure. Entry is intensely grapy but also cereally, quite like
breakfast cereal mixed with raisins; midpalate is long, medium
oily, yet astringent, spirity, and nearly austere in its razor-like
acidity. One of the best Arrans, period. Holy-moly this is luscious
and is a wine lover's dream malt.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
 Arran
Malt St. Emilion Grand Cru Classé Wine Casks Isle of Arran
Single Malt Whisky (Scotland; A Hardy USA, Rosemont, IL); 50%
abv, $80.
Burnished copper/amontillado sherry color; superb purity. First
sniffs pick up defined scents of ripe red grapes, grape jam,
and cereal mixed with fruit, especially raisins and nectarines;
after another eight minutes of air contact, the aromatic profile
definitely leans on the side of dried fruit, trail mix, and candied
nuts. Entry is full-weighted, incredibly oily and sleek, fruity,
and buttery; midpalate ably carries all these impressions to
the next stage with the spirit not making a real dent until the
finish which is smooth, ripe, off-dry to semisweet, intensely
oaky/sappy, and assertive. A powerhouse malt.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Auchentoshan Classic Lowlands Single Malt Scotch Whisky
(Scotland; Skyy Spirits LLC, San Francisco, CA); 40% abv, $30.
Jonquil/gamboges/dusty yellow gold color; flawless clarity. Smells
nicely of spice cake/winter holiday pastries (plenty of cinnamon
and vanilla) in the initial inhalations; aeration turns the aroma
fruitier and properly grainy/mashy/malty. Entry offers medium-sweet,
light textured tastes of vanilla bean, spice cake, and oak; midpalate
is deeper than the entry, offering more in the way of substantive
taste impact that is delicately sweet, grainy, and engagingly
spicy in keeping with the aroma. Concludes medium-long, bakery
shop sweet and doughy, and altogether simple and straightforward.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Auchentoshan 12 Year Old Lowlands Single Malt Scotch Whisky
(Scotland; Skyy Spirits LLC, San Francisco, CA); 43% abv, $46.
Bronze/amber hue; unblemished purity. First aromas include cement,
woodsy vegetation, and hemp/rope; swirling and additional time
in the glass don't coax more interesting aromas to emerge, leaving
behind a bland wet linen quality that's lacking in charm. Entry
displays a low-degree of sap-like maple sweetness and a touch
of oak vanillin; midpalate is toasty, roasted, semisweet, and
even a touch oily. Finishes delicate, elegant, mildly toasty,
and grainy. Entry, midpalate, and finish made up for aromatic
deficiencies.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Auchentoshan Three Wood Lowlands Single Malt Scotch Whisky
(Scotland; Skyy Spirits LLC, San Francisco, CA); 43% abv, $57.
Last reviewed in 1999 and rated Five Stars. By far, the most
eye-catching Auchentoshan of all; ochre/saffron/henna color;
impeccable clarity. Lots going on in the initial sniffs, including
scents of toasted grain, yeast, bread dough, and light toffee;
later whiffs encounter semisweet aromas of Sherry, honey, caramelized
onion, tropical fruits, and flax. Entry is peppery, oily, rich,
and a little metallic/coin-like; midpalate shakes off the trace
of metal coin and focuses promptly on Sherry/honey, ripe red
fruit like plums, chocolate cake frosting, and honey, honey,
and even more honey. Aftertaste is buttery, bacon fat-like, bacon
rind-like, and charred meat-like.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Auchentoshan 21 Year Old Lowlands Single Malt Scotch Whisky
(Scotland; Skyy Spirits LLC, San Francisco, CA); 40% abv, $140.
Last reviewed in 1994 and rated Four Stars. Topaz/amber color;
ideal purity. Scents of flax/hemp and wax open the aromatic proceedings
in a workmanlike manner; additional air exposure brings out meager
aromas of wet fabric, shale, and papaya. Entry features candied
fruit and nuts in abundance; midpalate is grainy sweet, almost
like sweetened breakfast cereal, fruity, and floral. Ends on
a high note of sweet barley malt, oak, and cooking spice (white
peppercorn).
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
The Balvenie Signature 12 Years Old 2009 Limited Release
Batch No. 002 Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; William
Grant & Sons, New York, NY); 43% abv, $65.
Bright bronze/amber color; impeccable clarity. Smells of barley
malt, light peat, and chocolate covered orange peel in the initial
whiffs; the depth of the barley fragrance knows no limits and
that brewery house/distillery quality is fetching in its own
right; love this malty, no nonsense bouquet. Entry is semisweet,
with succulent tastes of brown sugar, nougat, and almonds coated
in chocolate; the bakery/sweet shop feast continues in the midpalate
stage as the taste profile turns slightly away from the sweetness
and more towards the oiliness/resininess of the oak influence,
thereby making for a highly complex and intricate taste experience.
What Speyside is all about, mon amis.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
The Balvenie PortWood 21 Years Old Speyside Single Malt
Scotch Whisky (Scotland; William Grant & Sons, New York,
NY); 43% abv, $180.
Last evaluated in 1997 when I gave it three rating stars. Highly
attractive copper/burnished orange color; nearly flawless purity.
Shows the Balvenie aromatic thumbprint of barley/light peat but
goes further with lovely traces of oak resin, salted butter,
and salted almond; further aeration stimulates supplemental notes
of wax, black raisins, and parchment. Entry is sleek, nuanced
in its portiness, and gently not overtly sweet; midpalate is
fuller than the entry and more generous in flavor, offering oak-driven
vanillin and traces of ruby port, lead pencil, bark, and dried
nectarine. Concludes fruity, dry, and medium-rich. I agree with
my initial evaluation.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
The Balvenie Vintage Cask 1976 Speyside Single Malt Scotch
Whisky (Scotland; William Grant & Sons, New York, NY); 53%
abv, $850.
Gamboge/straw color; unblemished clarity. Offers an atypical
(for Balvenie) lack of barley/light smoke-peat in the first go-round,
but fills those holes with tree fruits, especially ripe pear,
nectarine, and red apple; the nose turns more flax-like, fibery,
and lean after the aeration period of eight minutes. Entry is
tightly-wound, waxy, lean, and off-dry; midpalate focuses more
on the oak barrel resins as well as the vanillin aspect, making
for very focused enjoyment. Ends on an oily, flex-like, resiny,
coconut note that is neither dry nor sweet, but somewhere in
between. A thought provoking malt.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
 Bruichladdich
Eighteen Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Winebow,
Montvale, NJ); 46% abv, $125.
Very pretty autumn gold/harvest grain amber color; excellent
purity. Initial whiffs pick up delicate aromas of baked pear,
honeywheat bread toast, and nectarine; aeration adds minor scent
traces of lanolin, sawdust, and malted barley. Entry is long,
nicely textured, moderately sweet in a caramel manner and balanced;
midpalate is all about the barley as the taste profile turns
slightly drier and biscuity. Concludes sappy, resiny, salty,
and semisweet.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
 Bruichladdich
Golder Still Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Winebow,
Montvale, NJ); 51% abv, $275.
Medium amber/harvest gold appearance; flawless purity. The spiritiness
of the opening aroma might be a bit much for the uninitiated
but I like this kind of fruity, eye-popping how-do-you-do; secondary
sniffs dig up roasted chestnut, pine, sawn wood, and barley malt.
Entry is firm, balanced between acidity, abv, and oak; midpalate
displays serious character and depth as the flavor profile includes
brown butter, sea salt, old oak, cedar wood, and brown sugar
aspects. Finishes beautifully piquant and prickly.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Bruichladdich 16 Year Old Bourbon Cask Islay Single Malt
Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Winebow, Montvale, NJ); 46% abv, $99.
Pale 14-carat gold/straw color; superb clarity. Wow, a stunningly
lush and buttery aromatic opening that's part ripe tropical fruit
(banana, kiwi), part bubble gum, and part raspberry preserves
- as I said, wow; the ripe berry fruit leaps forward after further
air contact, but the overall aromatic thrust settles down into
a calm, composed winner. Entry is grainy sweet and incredibly
oily/buttery/creamy to the touch; midpalate turns off the berry
spigot and moves in the direction of charred meat, oak resin,
fudge, and dark caramel. Oh, that first sniff!
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Bruichladdich 16 Year Old Cuvee A Chateau Lafite barrels
Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Winebow, Montvale,
NJ); 46% abv, $99.
Attractive rosy orange color; perfect clarity. Dry to the nose
in the initial sniffs, but with a distant trace of grape jam
and dried orange/tangerine; the nose gets more spirity after
further air contact, but it also picks up in the dried fruit
aspect; shows some minor spice as well. Entry is clean, lean,
crisp, and intensely oaky; midpalate pushes past the oakiness
and introduces light brine and plenty of acidity. I like the
refreshment factor of this malt, though it may be too brittle
for malt drinkers who appreciate plumpness and a bit of sweetness.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Bruichladdich 16 Year Old Cuvee B Chateau Latour barrels
Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Winebow, Montvale,
NJ); 46% abv, $99.
Rose/gold/copper/orange color; unblemished purity. First inhalations
after the pour detect savory fragrances of ash, shale, herbs,
and old oak; nose goes mute after seven minutes of aeration.
Entry is sublimely sweet and ripe and medium thick on the tongue;
midpalate offers integrated flavors of honey, nougat, light toffee,
and chocolate covered cherry. Finishes semisweet, crisp, yet
with some fat, and a last blast of saltiness. More developed
as a package than the severe and ascetic Cuvee A.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Bruichladdich 2001 Resurrection Dram Islay Single Malt
Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Winebow, Montvale, NJ); 46% abv, $79.
Jonquil color; excellent clarity. Now we're talking classic Islay
brininess here in this pungent, sea breeze aroma that also has
hints of baked banana and saltwater taffy; the aroma gets smokier/peatier
after further aeration. Entry is surprisingly sweet and sap-like;
midpalate is smoky, ashy, woody, oily, briny, and flat-out delicious.
Concludes firm, sweet, woody/resiny, and elegant. Like it a lot.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Edradour 10 Year Old Central Highlands Single Malt Scotch
Whisky (Scotland; Total Beverage Solution, Mt. Pleasant, SC);
43% abv, $65.
Pretty old gold/amontillado Sherry color; superb purity. First
nosings pick up delightfully sweet notes of almond paste, nougat,
and barley malt; delicate spice and confectioner elements emerge
after additional aeration time; this is an ethereal bouquet of
subtle charms. Entry is lithe, gently spiced and medium-sweet;
midpalate is nearly buttery, gingerbread-like, spice cake-like,
and elegant. Ends in a flurry of spice notes. Evaluated originally
in 1993 at two stars, I'm more than happy to upgrade that to
a solid three stars/borderline four.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
 Glenrothes
1991 Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Skyy Spirits,
San Francisco, CA); 43% abv, $75.
Maize/old gold color; unblemished clarity. Reminds me of sautéed
almonds or walnuts in the first nosing blast; following another
seven minutes of air contact, the nuttiness becomes more of a
dried fruit bouquet, as well as caramel, dark toffee and butterscotch
leaning; a complex and integrated aroma. Entry is round, oily,
succulent, and like white raisins; midpalate is rich, deeply
caramel-like and shows signs of bacon fat and marzipan in the
final stage. Ends on a lush, viscous note that is once again
nutty and wonderfully bittersweet. Another sumptuous, top grade
winner from this esteemed Speyside distiller.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
 Glenrothes
1975 Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Skyy Spirits,
San Francisco, CA); 43% abv, $525.
Bronze/burnished orange hue; perfect purity. I smell light smoke/peat
in the opening round of sniffing; seven minutes of further exposure
to air brings out dry cereal, barley, oats, and oakiness. Entry
is medium-sweet, sap-like, and resiny; midpalate offers greater
depth and richer tastes of barley, dried fruit (cherry), honey,
and vanilla. Concludes long, beany/spicy, and integrated on all
fronts.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Isle of Jura 10 Year Old Isle of Jura Single Malt Whisky
(Scotland; Sazerac Company, New Orleans, LA); 43% abv, $38.
Topaz/harvest gold color; perfect purity. Softly sweet and very
biscuity/cookie batter-like in the first inhalations after the
pour; the delicate aromatics don't really deepen with aeration,
they maintain the status quo. Entry is gently sweet and intensely
nutty; midpalate features tangy, low-impact saltiness and a butter
cream texture and taste that make it easily recommendable, even
if it's not what I'd consider complex. Ends up amiably sweet
and toasted. A good beginner's dram.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Macallan 18 Year Old Sherry Oak Speyside Single Malt Scotch
Whisky (Scotland; Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY); 43% abv,
$150.
Last formally reviewed in 1992 (Five Stars). One of the greatest
single malt appearances of all time; brilliant copper/orange
color; impeccable purity. The first sniffs detect deep notes
of toasted chestnut, brown butter, salted butter, and marzipan;
secondary passes after an additional eight minutes of air contact
bring out the oloroso Sherry in all its dried fruit/raisin/fig
glory, but also oak, treacle, chocolate fudge, and chocolate
covered cherries. Entry is fathomlessly deep, rich without being
unctuous, sweet without being cloying, and as elegant as any
other 18 year old malt whisky around. An enduring classic and
a benchmark for robust Speysides.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
Port Ellen 29 Year Old 8th Release/Cask Strength Islay
Single Malt Whisky (Scotland; Diageo N.A., Norwalk, CT); 55.3%
abv, $400.
Straw yellow/gamboges color; ideal clarity. Sea salt, green Manzanilla
olive, brine, band-aid plaster, and other saline aromatic delights
are present and accounted for in the opening inhalations; further
aeration time allows for the saline aspects to gradually build
to a crescendo. Entry is surprisingly sweet and toasted/smoky;
midpalate is even sweeter than the entry and saltier than the
aroma and I appreciate the assertiveness of the complex, intricate,
remarkably honeyed taste. One of the better ones in this annual
series.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
Springbank 11 Year Old Madeira Wood Campbeltown Single
Malt Scotch Whisky Cask Strength (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona,
CA); 55.1% abv, $99.
Amber color; superb purity. The elevated abv (cask strength)
offers prickly, keenly peppery opening scents that piggyback
atop the cleany, flax- and kernel-like aromatic foundation; the
spirit travels up the nasal cavity tweaking all the way and leaving
behind intensely grainy/breakfast cereal scents that rock. Entry
is surprisingly tame next to the rambunctious nature of the bouquet
as fruity tastes of plums and dates abound; midpalate is vibrant
with spirit and wine-like tastes that go beyond the grain/malt/kernel
base to semisweet heights. Finishes long, chewy, buttery, and
ideally sweet yet crisp.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
Springbank 18 Year Old Campbeltown Single Malt Scotch Whisky
(Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 46% abv, $189.
Pretty, bright maize/marigold color; perfect clarity. Ooooh,
this lovely, biscuity nose begins toasty, gently sweet, malty,
fruity, and even a touch nutty; following another seven minutes
of air contact, the aroma settles into grain-o-rama mode that
includes hints of oak and cedar/pine. Entry is nothing short
of delicious as the taste profile goes caramel sweet, tangy/salty,
and baked; midpalate soars with limitless flavors of cocoa, hot
fudge, nougat, hot buttered rum, vanilla extract, and deep oakiness.
Concludes warm as embers in the throat, semisweet, and demarara
sugar-like. To use the most technical term I can think of: wowee-wow-wow-wow.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
INDEPENDENT
MERCHANT SINGLE MALT & SINGLE GRAIN WHISKY - SCOTLAND
Duncan Taylor NC2 Range Ben Nevis 1996 Western Highlands
Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona,
CA); 46% abv, $83.
Very pale yellow appearance; unblemished clarity. Smells sweet,
salty, and grainy right out of the gate, even a touch herbal/fresh
garden-like; the herbal aspect gives way to a yellow fruit quality
that reminds me of baked pears after another seven minutes of
air contact; very pleasant nosing. Entry is slightly salty, mildly
peated, and nearly austere in its high acidity and medium-bodied
texture; midpalate highlights the yellow fruit with traces of
leather and margarine. Ends biscuity and just a shade sweet.
Nice job here.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Duncan Taylor Cameronbridge 1979 Cask #3584 Single Grain
Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 49.5% abv,
$180.
Bright amber/marigold color; superb clarity. Opening whiffs detect
prickly, piquant scents that are spirity and gently fruity; after
further aeration, the bouquet turns doughy and bread-like, with
sophisticated aromas of yeast, early morning bakery, and breakfast
cereal. Entry is rich, lip-smacking honeyed, and citrusy; midpalate
soars with dried fruit tastes, including prunes, apricots, banana,
baked marshmallow and cranberry. Finishes well and robust. Whoever
claims that grain whiskies can't hold their own on their own
should sample this dandy whisky.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Duncan Taylor Cameronbridge 1978 Cask #12 Single Grain
Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 57.4% abv,
$188.
Old gold color; impeccable purity. A big rush of warm spiritiness
leaps from the sampling glass in the initial inhalations, but
there's also a keen spiciness (cinnamon) that lies beneath the
abv thrust; following seven more minutes of air contact, the
spirit blows off leaving behind lovely scents of new leather,
flax, and banana. Entry reveals a concentrated cereal quality
that's intense and semisweet; midpalate takes the cereal aspect
further, driven totally by the elevated spirit. Concludes spirity,
nearly hot, and extremely grainy/flax-like.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Duncan Taylor Caol Ila 1982 Cask #2735 Islay Single Malt
Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 53.6% abv,
$197.
Medium amber/14-carat gold color; completely sediment-free. I
note salty aromas of seaweed/kelp upfront but they are buttressed
by softer malty scents that border on being saltwater taffy-like;
later whiffs detect a fading of the saltiness/sea breeze and
an ascendancy of biscuits/cookies/snack cracker scent. Entry
features brine, dried herbs (sage especially), and cigarette
tobacco; midpalate is tightly wound, edgy, crisp, acidic, and
properly smoky for the region. I wasn't bowled over by this Caol
Ila expression, but it's very good and amiable.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Duncan Taylor Carsebridge 1978 Cask #33041 Single Grain
Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 54.8% abv,
$173.
Attractive burnished orange/maize color; excellent purity. Offers
plump, doughy, bakery fragrances in the opening sniffs that could
almost be called "fruity" though perhaps ripe and round
are better terms; additional air contact brings out a spicy aspect
that's complementary to the bakery/dough/biscuity elements; hardly
a complex bouquet, but nice nonetheless. Entry displays a round,
chewy viscosity that is highlighted by semisweet flavors of toasted
marshmallow and butterscotch; the sweetness continues into the
midpalate as the taste profile turns warmer as the abv aspect
picks up steam. Is this a benchmark grain whisky? No. Is it recommendable?
By all means, yes.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Duncan Taylor Dalmore 1990 Cask #D311 Northern Highlands
Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona,
CA); 56.7% abv, $128.
Medium amber/straw/18-carat gold color; some sediment seen; not
pristine. Smells of steamed brown rice, new leather, and dried
banana in the opening round of sniffing; further aeration time
brings out pine nut and light caramel elements that are mild
but pleasing. Entry is firmly structured, engagingly warm, nutty,
and gently sweet; midpalate is long, buttery/oily, a trace salty/peaty,
and round and full. Finishes on a semisweet note that's very
piny/cedary/resiny.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Duncan Taylor North British Cask #38473 Single Grain Scotch
Whisky (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 55.4% abv, $176.
Pale amber/sauternes yellow color; flawless clarity. Light toffee
and caramel highlight the initial whiffs in this simple and straightforward
bouquet; the candy quality blows off leaving in its wake a tight-fisted,
austere grain aspect that's shallow. Entry is very caramel-like
and dried fruit-like, almost toasty and honeyed in its sweetness;
midpalate features ample fudge, cocoa, and nougat notes that
don't overshadow the vibrant spirit. Ends clean, full-bodied,
vigorous. Again, not a landmark achievement in grain whisky as
few are, but very good indeed.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Duncan Taylor Royal Lochnagar 1990 Cask #355 Eastern Highlands
Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona,
CA); 54.2% abv, $174.
Yellow gold/jonquil appearance; excellent purity. Initial whiffs
encounter low-key scents of wax, lanolin, and toffee; added time
in glass of seven minutes doesn't accomplish much in the way
of aromatic expansion. Entry is taut, lean, austere yet wonderfully
spicy and tangy; midpalate features more assertive, broader tastes
including nougat, marzipan, dark chocolate/cocoa, honey, and,
if one digs extra deep, oloroso Sherry. Ends on a candy bar note
that's more semisweet than sweet and nutty. Wow, the entry, midpalate,
and aftertaste are dynamite.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Duncan Taylor Strathclyde 1980 Cask #1497 Single Grain
Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 56.7% abv,
$214.
Pretty medium amber/18-carat gold color; ideal clarity. This
opening nose emits attractive scents of sugar cookie/biscuit,
almond paste, and cocoa; the aroma flattens out slightly after
another seven minutes of air exposure, but the appealing rudimentary
aspects are still alive and accounted for. Entry is acutely sweet
and brown sugar-like, almost rum-like; midpalate is like confectioner's
sugar, sweetened cake frosting, and vanilla-flavored biscuits.
Finishes sappy, maple-like, and intensely sweet and resiny.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
 Wemyss Vintage Malts
The Peat Chimney Blended Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotland; PA Bock
Wines & Spirits, San Francisco, CA/Specialty Imports, Peoria,
IL); 40% abv, $42.
Bright jonquil/saffron color; unblemished clarity. Semisweet
fragrances of pipe tobacco, bonfire smoke, kippers, and ash highlight
the first whiffs; following eight minutes of stand-alone aeration,
the sweetness blows off, leaving behind nicely ashy notes of
smoldering fire, cigarette ash, wood smoke, and kippers/smoked
fish. Entry is surprisingly flat and just a touch spicy, but
a bit blah considering the smokiness; midpalate is a touch livelier
as the sweetness makes a return to bolster and complement the
heavy smokiness. Concludes nicely in a pipe tobacco manner.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
BLENDED WHISKY
- SCOTLAND
Black Bull 30 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland;
Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 50% abv, $199.
Half malt whisky and half grain whisky; non-chill filtered; matured
in sherry casks. Auburn/tarnished copper color; excellent purity.
First inhalations detect aromas of dark honey, molasses, and
demerara sugar; the second passes following further aeration
encounter bittersweet, fudge-like aromas that are dark, confectionery-like,
and transfixing; a Big League Sherry butt bouquet. Entry is very
sweet in a high cocoa content dark chocolate way rather than
a sugary manner; midpalate is deep, bittersweet, complex, oily/resiny,
and not the least bit fat or flabby. Finishes intense, concentrated,
and bittersweet. Not for everyone, but an intriguing blend with
lots going for it.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Buchanan's Deluxe 12 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland;
Diageo N.A., Norwalk, CT); 40% abv, $38.
Last reviewed in 1992 and rated Three Stars. Bright amber/old
gold color; good clarity. Nose after opening pour is faintly
grainy and gently spirity; aromatic profile opens up a smidgen
following aeration as it gives off delicate scents of salted
peanut, oak plank, and cooking oil. Entry is oaky/resiny/maple-like
and medium-sweet; midpalate is chewy, textured, almost viscous,
and honey sweet. Finishes long, toffee sweet, and fudge-like.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
 Buchanan's
Special Reserve 18 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland;
Diageo N.A., Norwalk, CT); 43% abv, $80.
Last reviewed in 1997 and given Four Stars. Gorgeous, brilliant,
burnished orange/bronze color; impeccable purity. Very spirity,
nearly prickly in the first inhalations, but also fruity and
nutty; the fruit/nut combination races to the forefront with
aeration, providing an animated and pleasing bouquet stage. Entry
is resiny and unabashedly sap-like and deliciously caramelly;
midpalate highlights the caramel aspect to the hilt, but also
includes assertive flavors of praline, buttered pecan, and butter
cookies. Ends up bakery shop sweet and with a newly added twist
of spice that rounds the finish off well. Generous and concentrated.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
 Buchanan's
Red Seal Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Diageo N.A., Norwalk,
CT); 40% abv, $144.
Pretty topaz/harvest gold/marigold color; excellent clarity.
Shows a bakery shop sweetness and oakiness in the initial whiffs
that tweak my interest to smell more; the sweetness fades slightly
after more time in the glass, leaving room for the wood and also
an emerging graininess/muesli quality that's nice and toasted.
Entry is malty/mashy/grainy sweet and viscous; midpalate is long
and luxurious in maple and sweetened cereal tastes that are admittedly
near over-the-top, but nonetheless enjoyable and honest. Not
much contemplation time is required to enjoy.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
 Dewar's Founder's
Reserve 18 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland; John Dewar
& Sons, Miami, FL); 40% abv, $80.
Very bright saffron/amber color; impeccable purity. Delicate
scents of baking spices and sweet grains make themselves apparent
in the opening round of inhaling; further air contact brings
out a slight candied/sugar glaze aspect that's pleasant, though
not deep. Entry offers rich, dark toffee, and toasted marshmallow
flavors in abundance; midpalate is likewise caramel sweet and
toasty, with a medium oily texture and underpinning tastes of
marzipan and brown sugar. Aftertaste is long, gently sweet, and
seriously grainy.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Pinch The Dimple 15 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland;
Diageo N.A., Norwalk, CT); 43% abv, $32.
Last formally evaluated in 1992 and rated Four Stars. Medium
amber/topaz hue; sparse sediment seen, though inconsequential
to the appearance. I immediately pick up lots of yellow fruits
in the initial whiffs, everything from pear to nectarine to banana;
the fruitiness continues nicely in the second stage sniffs as
the fruit turns a bit more ripe and sweet. Entry is caramel sweet
and full of baking spices, especially vanilla and nutmeg; midpalate
is medium full, beautifully oily in texture, sap-like and resiny,
and like honey-coated cereal. Finish is buttery, creamy, a touch
roasted, and very satiny. A blended Scotch that is vastly underappreciated
in the U.S. Excellent, in particular, in the entry, midpalate
and finish phases.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
 Royale
Salute 21 Year Old (Chivas Brothers) Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland;
Pernod Ricard USA, New York, NY); 40% abv, $200.
Last reviewed in 1995 and rated Five Stars. Attractive orange/bronze
color; flawless purity. Lightly smells of toasted grain and baked
pears in the initial inhalations after the pour; additional time
in the glass allows for slightly deeper scents in the tropical
fruit forms of banana and pineapple; I am concerned that the
bouquet seems more timid than when I last evaluated it in 1995.
Entry is tidy, neat, and trim while still offering tastes of
light toffee, sweet malt, and light oak; midpalate is the high
point since it reeks of elegance in a dried fruit and cereal
manner. Ends gracefully, composed, tight, and yet somewhat lackluster.
With reluctance, I'm downgrading Royal Salute by one rating star.
Go for Chivas 18.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
BLENDED WHISKY
- CANADA
 Crown
Royal Cask No. 16 Blended Canadian Whisky (Canada; Diageo N.A.,
Norwalk, CT); 40% abv, $99.
Defines "bronze" in a whisky appearance; flawlessly
clean and clear. Smells of leather, cereal grain, breakfast cereal,
and dates in the first sniffs; bouquet expands with seven minutes
of aeration to include raisins, nuts, and figs. Entry is lushly
delicious and silky textured, with big flavors of grape preserves
and black plums; midpalate is semisweet and concentrated on dried
fruits, especially black raisins and prunes, but there's also
a fine wood aspect that's just slightly resiny but more sweet
and vanilla-like. Finishes with elegance, substance, and tons
and tons of dried fruits.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
WHISKEY -
USA
Elijah Craig 12 Year Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
(USA; Heaven Hill Distilleries, Bardstown, KY); 47% abv, $18.
Owns a reddish brown henna/auburn color that's very pretty; unblemished
clarity. Smells out of the gate like dried fruits (prunes, black
raisins) and honey; seven more minutes of aeration stimulate
deeper, more confectioner's shop-like fudge, dark caramel, nougat,
and dried apricot. The entry is succulent, semisweet, toffee-like,
and luscious; midpalate is resiny/sawdust-like, oily/buttery,
caramel-like and just plain old dried red fruit delicious. Finishes
as savory and integrated as it begins. An ideal American whiskey
of the highest order.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
 Fighting Cock 6
Year Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Heaven Hill
Distilleries, Bardstown, KY); 51.5% abv, $17.
One of the darkest and, I think, prettiest bourbons in the marketplace;
deep henna/ochre/chestnut color; superb clarity. Smells of old
leather/men's club and pipe tobacco in the first whiffs; eight
minutes of added aeration brings out deep bakery shop notes of
chocolate covered truffles, almond paste, and paraffin. Entry
is sweet yet not cloying and fruity in a dried fruit or better
baked fruit (banana, apricot, pear) manner; midpalate is spirity
and warming and caramel sweet. I sampled this in the late 1990s
and I like it more now. Seems deeper and more substantial.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Four Roses 2009 Limited Edition Single Barrel Kentucky
Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Four Roses Distillery, Lawrenceburg,
KY); 113.8-116.9% range abv, $100.
Lovely light amber/orange color; flawless purity. Nose at opening
is biscuity, woody (sawdust) and aggressively spirity; seven
more minutes in the glass stimulate deeper aromas, including
wood resin, unbuttered popcorn, and caramel corn. Entry is warming,
intensely corny, and yet sharp as a razor's edge - not flabby
or fat in the least as the acid level seems high; midpalate is
more maple- and caramel-like than grainy or woody. Concludes
warm as embers, composed as only topnotch straight bourbon can
be when made with care, and powerful. This whiskey ripples with
strength and depth. I recommend watering down two parts bourbon,
one part water.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
 High
West Whiskey 16 Year Old Rocky Mountain Rye Straight Rye Whiskey
Batch No. 2/Bottle No. 939 (USA; High West Distillery, Park City,
UT); 46% abv, $80.
Beautifully copper-like in color; unblemished purity. Smells
alluringly of English toffee and baked bread in the opening whiffs;
time in the glass affords the bouquet the chance to expand into
areas of dried fruit (prunes, black raisins) and mince meat.
Entry is deep and bittersweet, with delightful traces of candied
nuts and baking spice; midpalate is long, honeyed/sherried, caramel-like,
buttery, and intensely woody/oaky/bacon-like. Ends up tasting
of charred meats, bacon, sausages, and BBQ rub. Dynamic, bittersweet,
sap-like, and deep in character.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
 High
West Whiskey 21 Year Old Rocky Mountain Rye Whiskey Batch No.
3/Bottle No. 997 (USA; High West Distillery, Park City, UT);
46% abv, $130.
Not a straight rye whiskey because it was matured in used barrels.
Bronze/autumnal gold color; some large chunks of black sediment
seen. Is biscuity in the initial inhalations, with plenty of
bakery aromas, like dough, spices, yeast, lemon; seems to go
a little flat and flabby after further air contact, losing much
of the charm found in the first nosings. Entry is big in character
and dry, then the taste profile turns sweet at midpalate, almost
going corn-like rather than rye-like, which brings questions
to my mind. It finishes quite well in a mildly woody/resiny manner
but also in a pleasing grainy way. Inconsistent, but good enough
to recommend.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
 Old
Fitzgerald Prime Bourbon Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA;
Old Fitzgerald Distillery, Louisville, KY); 43% abv, $13.
Attractive deep amber/bronze color; excellent purity. Aroma is
a touch mute in the first go-rounds after the pour, except for
a paraffin scent; following aeration, a corn syrup/sweet corn
fragrance emerges, but the nose overall is still rather undefined
and vague. Entry tastes are harmonious and resiny; midpalate
features oily/buttery flavors that are keenly woody, but there's
an accompanying corny sweetness that works well. Finishes cereal
sweet and oily.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Whiskey (USA; Old Fitzgerald Distillery, Louisville, KY); 50%
abv, $13.
Burnished orange/copper color; flawless clarity. High-flying
spirity aromas come barreling out of the glass in waves, but
there's also a nice marshmallow aspect that rounds off the edginess
of the abv; after another six minutes in the glass the spirit
dominates the aroma, yet there are alluring toasty/roasted nut
scents that complement the spiritiness. Entry is surprisingly
composed and integrated into the taste profile; at midpalate,
the spirit aspect gradually grows in potency and warmth while
the sweet corn/buttered popcorn flavors advance as well. Concludes
on a warming note and the taste turns bittersweet and sap-like.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highly Recommended
Old Forester 2008 Birthday Bourbon Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Whiskey (USA; Brown-Forman Distilling Co., Louisville, KY); 47%
abv, $40.
Glorious bronze color; impeccably clean. Nose is delicate yet
firm in the first sniffs as soft aromas of toasted grain, roasted
nuts, and tree sap converge for a lovely, even elegant opening
aroma; seven more minutes of air contact bring out distant scents
of brown butter and vanilla bean; wow. Entry is moderately oily,
nutty/nougat-like, and even figgy; midpalate highlights flavors
of toasted grains, honey, vanilla extract, charcoal, and brown
sugar. Finishes long, silky, and semisweet. One of the best from
this fabulous series.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
Parker's Heritage Collection Golden Anniversary Kentucky
Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Old Heaven Hill Springs Distillery,
Bardstown, KY); 50% abv, $150.
Bottled to commemorate the golden anniversary of master distiller
Parker Beam, a genuine distilling genius and one of the nicest
men I know. Glorious topaz/burnished orange hue; impeccable purity.
Rich, deep scents of caramel corn and brown butter are featured
in the initial inhalations; another seven minutes of air contact
add subtle aromas of prickly pear, old leather, nougat, and corn
chips. Entry is ideally acidic and razor-sharp, but then the
taste profile evolves quickly at midpalate into a focused experience
that highlights popcorn, unsweetened breakfast cereal, almonds,
and sweetish, charred oak. A lovely vanilla bean/honey taste
wraps up the experience in the finish. A fitting tribute edition.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Highest Recommendation
 Sazaerac
Straight Rye Whiskey (USA; Buffalo Trace Distillery, Frankfort,
KY); 45% abv, $25.
Bright copper color; unblemished purity. Opening nose is a bit
too muted for its own good; aeration doesn't, to my disappointment,
assist in stimulating much in the way of aromatics so I proceed
directly to tasting. Entry is round, supple, and corny sweet;
midpalate offers pleasant tastes of dried cherry and heavily
toasted marshmallow. Ends up burnt, charcoal-like, toasted, and
nicely sweet in a barbequed manner.
Spirit Journal 2009 Rating:
Recommended
© F. Paul
Pacult
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